Here at Cheeky Monkey Brewing Co., we’re very excited to offer shuffleboard in our game room, learn how to play Shuffleboard with our guide & tips. Shuffleboard is an incredibly easy game to learn and get into! This video will detail the rules of how to set up, how to play and how to win!Browse our range.
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How To Play & Score 'Crazy Eight' |
| Table Shuffleboard games are loved by all ages!!! |
There was a time when table shuffleboard games were loved only by the players, not operators, or location owners. The game was thought of as an 'older person's game' or an 'expensive bar table.' Often times table shuffleboard is confused with 'deck/floor' shuffleboard where players push a stick on the ground to get their puck to the scoring areaon a floor/deck court. Times have changed! Table shuffleboard has become a competitive and growing sport amongst players of all ages. With the success of Sports Bars, Brewery Restaurants and Family Fun Centers, table shuffleboard has caught on with players of all ages. In addition, many shuffleboard players are putting these shuffleboards in their own homes. The games involve skill and, of course, a little luck. FUN FOR ALL AGES to play!
How To PLAY and SCORE 'Crazy Eight' !!! |
There are several traditional table shuffleboard games that are played. The most common table shuffleboard game played in major tournaments is called 'Knock Off'. Other commonly played table shuffleboard games are 'Crazy Eight' and 'Horse Collar'. 'Target' & 'Tap & Draw' and 'Baseball (a Horse Collar variation)' are less commonly played games. Crazy Eight - Overview Crazy Eight is a singles game played with 2 or more players and is played in frames allowing all players to have an equal chance. Players alternate ends of the board between frames, each player using all eight weights/pucks [red and blue]. The Game is played until one player scores some agreed upon number of points (e.g., 1-point, 15-points, 21-points, etc.). You continue frames until a winner is determined. Scoring the agreed upon points first does not necessarily make that player the winner. Every player gets to finish that frame and the highest score that is equal to or greater than the agreed upon game point (e.g., 1-points, 15-points, 21-points, etc.) is declared the winner. If the player that scores equal to or greater than the agreed minimum required points has the hammer (the last player to play), then he/she is declared the winner. If the last player ties with a prior player, then another round must be played to determine the winner. Before a player can score, the first 4 weights (same color) must be thrown simultaneously with one hand and all 4 weights must stay on the board and be past the long foul line (the foul line furthest from the shooter). If all 4 weights do not stay on the board, then that player gets no points for that round and the next player is up to play. If all 4 weights do stay on the board past the long foul line, then the player must shoot all 4 weights/pucks (in four shots) of the opposite color and must knock off those first four weights thrown past the foul line before any points can be scored for that frame. After all 4 original weights are knocked off, the remaining weights left on the table are scored. For instance, if a player does not get all four of their first 4 weights past the long foul line, no points are scored; if a player does get all 4 weights past the foul on first throw, but does not knock them off and keep at least one of the final 4 weights on the board, no points are scored; if a player gets all 4 first weights past the foul line, knocks them all off and has at least one of the final 4 weights left on the board, points are added and count. OPTIONAL: Sometimes players will also have a 'Hickey' count which means every time a player does not score, it constitutes a 'Hickey', and each player that does not score in a round puts an agreed upon amount of money into a 'Hickey Jar' (e.g., $.25, $1, $5, etc.) and the final winner of the game gets the contents of the Hickey Jar. This is just something that can be done to make the game more interesting, but may or may not be part of your agreed upon Crazy Eight tournament rules.
How To Play Take 4 weights [of same color], group them together, and throw them with one hand. If all 4 weights do not pass the long foul line and stay on the board, no points are scored for that round [and player gets a 'Hickey' if your tournament includes a 'Hickey Jar'], and next player is up on the opposite end of the board for their turn. If all 4 weights of the same color group did pass the long foul line and stay on the board, then player shoots the remaining 4 weights [of opposite color] one at a time and attempts to knock off the 1st 4 weights and keep at least one of the last four weights of the opposite color on the board to score points (this is great practice for knock off, making combination shots to remove more than one of the 4 weights with one shot, and to be able to either stick a final shot or lag with the weights you have left after you've knocked off all 4 weights of the original color group). If all of the first color group weights are knocked off and you still have at least one of the second color on the board and past the long foul line, this is your score; otherwise, no point is scored [and player gets a 'Hickey' if your tournament includes a 'Hickey Jar']. In either case, the next player is up on the opposite end of the board for their turn. How To Count Player's Scores Scoring (e.g., 1-point, 2-points, 3-points, or 4-points) is similar to 'knock off' with the exceptions noted above where first 4 weights of the same color must remain on the board and past the long foul line, and then they must all be knocked off with the remaining 4 weights of the opposite color while keeping one or more of these weights on the board. A weight scores 1-point if it is located between the long foul line and the '2' line. Weights completely across the '2' line count 2-points; weights across the '3' line count 3-points, a weight hanging over the end of the board (a.k.a. hanger) counts 4-points, etc.
To judge if a weight is completely over a line it should be viewed from above (i.e., look down over the top of the weight, positioning your nose approximately to the center of the weight --do not lean over too far or you get an inaccurate view-- the entire weight must be over the line for it to count as the next higher point value--you should be able to see some wood between the line and the weight for it to count as the next higher point.) If any portion of the weight is hanging over the end of the board (not the side) it is called a 'hanger' and counts 4-points. Close calls can be checked by holding a weight so the top of a weight is along the back end of the board. The weight is then slid along the back end of the board. If it hits the 'disputed' hanger the weight is indeed hanging and is worth 4-points. Miscellaneous Rules (Re:Board Talk Open Rules/Guidelines) Before a player shoots, the player can dust the board if dry spots are showing. Note: In tournaments this may be restricted to the edge of the board or left to the discretion of the Tournament Director(s). Shooters must have one foot behind the playing surface while they are shooting. Hitting or shaking the table is never allowed.
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| Page Last Updated:12/14/2005 07:29:38 PM |
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How to Build a Shuffleboard Table
If you’re interested in trying to build a shuffleboard table, here is my account of making a shuffleboard with no prior woodworking experience. I had no tools, materials or construction knowledge going in, so the mistakes came early and often. But overall the shuffleboard table turned out great and I learned a lot along the way. I am currently in the process of creating this site to help others who are tackling this project. It may take me a couple of weeks to get all of the content up, the pictures loaded and the links working. Thanks for your patience.
Background
For a couple years I’ve wanted to get a shuffleboard and after buying a house, I finally had the room. I searched around online and was disappointed to find out that 22 foot shuffleboards were priced around $5k. After seeing some 9, 12 and 14 foot boards locally, I just didn’t feel like the playing surface was long enough. I also didn’t want to drop some serious money on something that could never be taken apart and moved if I ever have to relocate for my job.
After looking for used tables on ebay, I came across DIY shuffleboard plans… but they were over $20 with shipping and came with a disclaimer that required:
- “Level 4 or level 5 woodworking abilities and a number of quality tools to insure success.”
I’m about a level 0 woodworker, so those plans weren’t for me. Fortunately, I did a couple of searches online and found some DIY examples:
After looking through Dave’s and Gary’s websites, it seemed like something doable for a beginner. I literally have no experience woodworking. The last time I took a construction class was in 7th grade and the only thing I’ve constructed since then was a tent. My collection of power tools was limited to a drill and a hammer, so any project would be an investment and a learning experience. I was enthusiastic that it would turn out well, but gave it a 50/50 chance of success.
Timing / Costs
Overall the project took me 3 weeks (weekends and a couple nights during the week). This is a lot longer than it should’ve taken because of all the mistakes I made. I think it should’ve taken two solid weekends. If you decide to give it a shot, I hope this site helps you avoid some of the missteps and wasted time that I experienced.
As far as costs go, I’ve added up the actual costs I incurred and also the required costs (not spending money on things that weren’t necessary). I’ve also looked at project-specific materials and general purpose items (ex. Tools) that could be used for more than just this project. Overall costs:
- Project-specific materials (required): $495
- All materials & tools (required): $837
Honestly, I tried to be as realistic and budget conscious as possible when adding up these totals. It was more expensive than I’d hoped but I came out with a great table, a good start to my tool bench and some experience. For full details on costs and materials, check out the Materials Page.
How To Play Game Pigeon Shuffleboard
Starting the Project
So, I began with the playing court itself because I figured the success or failure of the project really depends on a level and smooth playing surface for the shuffleboard pucks
to travel across. After a quick sketch of the dimensions in Excel, I was ready to start.
How To Play Shuffleboard On Game Pigeon
Other major components (box to hold playing surface, legs, scoring) could be planned out later if the court was well executed.
Follow the links below for the full details on the build:
If you’d just like the short, step-by-step instructions, go to the link here:
How To Play Game Pigeon Shuffleboard
How To Play Game Pigeon Shuffleboard Youtube
Click here if you’re just looking for shuffleboard table dimensions
Click here if you’re just looking for shuffleboard table rules