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Racing Homer Pigeon For Sale

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Racing pigeon comes home and lands with his wings spread wide.and a white clear sky as a White feather homing pigeon bird flying agasint clear blue sky White Pigeon sitting on the stone wall in park.

Training a homing pigeon was very important in the past. Because the homing pigeons were used to carry messages from one place to another.

Actually, pigeons were domesticated over 5000 years ago. And the homing pigeons are excellent, they have an innate ability to find their way home.

Training a homing pigeon is also important today, especially if you participate any pigeon racing competition.

Today, most of the people raise pigeons for entertainment purpose, some raise as pets and some people also raise them commercially for business purpose.

Training a Homing Pigeon

Today, pigeon racing is a great way of entertainment, and it’s also a great way for making some extra cash.

You need to train your pigeons well for competing in the pigeon racing. You also need to train the pigeons, so that they come home daily and safely.

Here we are describing more about the process of training a homing pigeon.

Minimum Age for Training a Homing Pigeon

You should start training a homing pigeon when it is at least 6 weeks old. You can help your pigeons figure out the trapdoor in the loft, when they are 6 weeks of age.

The trapdoor is designed to allow your pigeons to get into the loft anytime they want, but you’ll be able to set the trapdoor to only let them out when you want.

It will be good and helpful for training a homing pigeon if you put together a training schedule (so that you have something specific to follow daily).

Training a homing pigeon actually requires dedication and lots of time. It will be good if you have a schedule ready, so that you know about what you have to be ready for each day.

And this will actually help you keep the training process consistent. The training schedule should include training a homing pigeon at least once a day.

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Ensure Adequate Facilities

You must have to ensure adequate facilities for your pigeons. Ensure the birds have incentive to return to their loft.

Some common things which make your pigeons want to come back home are comfortable housing/loft, obviously good food and being treated like royalty.

It will be good for your pigeons if you can provide them with the highest quality food and safe loft you can afford.

Begin Training

Start training a homing pigeon to come back home after being released. You should not anyhow do this before your pigeons reach 6-8 weeks of age.

You can start training your pigeons to come back home by taking them around 1 mile away from home and releasing them.

You need to do this several times a week (better if you can do this daily). You can use a basket or cage for carrying the birds to the release location.

Expand Distance Each Week

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You need to expand the releasing distance gradually. Expanding the distance by less or more than 5 miles per week will be good (it’s good if you keep the distance less than or around 5 miles).

Taking the birds in different directions each time and releasing them will also be good.

But remember, don’t expand the distance too fast and too far. You need to stop increasing the distance if your birds have any trouble, and continue training them at the last distance where they were successful.

Actually training a homing pigeon will take time and dedication. So be patient!

Bird Loss

Be careful of bird loss. Loosing birds is obviously unfortunate, but it is not uncommon.

You need to reduce the training distance and frequency for a while, if you experience bird loss.

Although some pigeons might simply get tired on their return journey and need time to rest.

Generally they will come back home, but it may take them one day to few days to return (if they have stopped for a break).

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Second Home

Creating a second home for your pigeons is a good idea. You can train your birds to fly between two loft locations, in addition to training them to return to your home loft.

For example, the second home can either be your cottage or your friend’s/relative’s home. Feed your birds with high quality foods at both lofts.

Doing this will give them incentive to want to return to each loft. Generally they will fly to the other loft to look for food, especially if they are at one loft and are hungry.

These are the common ways of training a homing pigeon. If you are raising homing pigeons, you need to follow this guide for training them. Good luck!

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2. Mutations‎ > ‎

2.2 The Color Series

There are two mutations known to exist at this locus in pigeons. The colors of the phenotypes caused by these mutations may be modified or hidden by other genetic factors such as recessive white, but every pigeon has is either wild-type or has a mutation at this locus.
The color series consists of three alleles at the color locus on the sex chromosome. That is correct, color is a sex-linked factor in pigeons. This means that males may be heterozygous or homozygous for any color factor (they get a copy from both father and mother) while the females can only be hemizygous (they only get a copy from their father, from their mother females get the W chromosome and not a Z chromosome).
The three phenotypic colors (wild type and the two mutants) and their expression are described below.

Blue (Wild type)

Blue is the most common color found in pigeons, many (if not most) racing homers are genetically blue. The birds on the previous page discussing the pattern series, were all blue base pigeons. In blue pigeons, the basic color is a bluish gray, with the pattern on the shield as well as the tail bar a darker color, almost black. The flights are also dark, but not always as dark as the pattern and tail bar. The symbol for blue is B⁺.

Blue bar racing homer hen. (One of mine - though I no longer have her)

Ash-Red

Ash-red is the most dominant allele of the color series. This mutation causes the base color to change from blue to an ashy gray color, the tail bar and the flights change to the same ashy color, while the pattern on the wing shield turns a brick-red color. This means that in ash-red birds the tail bar and the albescent strip are very difficult if not impossible to see clearly. The symbol for ash-red is B^A.

In heterozygous males (B^A//B⁺ or B^A//b), it sometimes happens that the feathers are lightly flecked with the colour hidden by the ash-red, the flecking is often more noticeable on the flights and tail, though they can occur anywhere. This means that an ash-red cock split for blue might show some blue flecking in the flights and tail.

Ash-red Bar German Beauty Homer (Photo from Wikimedia Commons by Gyyr)

If you want to get technical about it, this mutation causes the inhibition of eumelanin deposits and/or production in the feathers. Eumelanin is the black pigment that produces the blue (grey) and black seen in wild-type birds. The ash-red mutation also causes an increase in the production and deposition of pheomelanin, a red pigment. The combination of these factors causes the red and cream (ash) appearance of this phenotype.

Brown

Lastly, the brown allele at this locus is the most recessive. This mutation changes the base color from a bluish gray to a brown gray. The pattern, tail and flights are a darker brown instead of black. Brown coloration fades considerably in the sun. Sometimes the feathers that are exposed are so bleached that it is impossible to distinguish the tail bar when the tail is folded. Spreading the tail and wings is the only way to see if such bird is brown. Notice on the picture below how light the flights and tail are. Another very important distinguishing factor is that brown birds always show a false pearl eye. A false pearl eye looks rather duller than the eyes of blue and ash-red birds and does not show the intense coloration on the iris (which is either yellow-orange in wild-type birds or blue-white in real pearl eyed birds - more on that later)

Brown Bar Horseman Pouter Hen (Photo from Circus Lofts)